Friday, 10 August 2012

Tigerprint pattern brief - Iconic male fashion through the years

The 1950s :


Conservative business suits were favored by men, so much so that the "Man in the Gray Flannel Suit" became a known archetype, as well as the title of a 1955 novel by Sloan Wilson.
Men's 1950s fashion was clean cut and conservative. The "gray flannel suit" referred to a style popular among American men, which started out in the Ivy League colleges. The "American suit" was usually charcoal gray, single-breasted with two or three widely spaced buttons, unwaisted, with no back vent. Also popular was the "penny loafer," a slip-on shoe with a cut-out apron that could fit a penny.
Hats became less and less popular among both men and women, throughout the 1950s. By the end of the 1950s they were still seen, though not required for a business uniform; by 1970, they had vanished almost entirely.
Men's hair was kept short and neat, typically in a crewcut. A D.A. (short for "Duck's Ass") haircut was seen as a blatant rebellion against the social order. Young people, unsurprisingly, saw this as cool.





The modern take:


The 1960s :

A Revolution of Style

Revolutionary, indeed. Men's fashion during the 1960s took a departure from the simple, crisp looks of decades past. While previous years certainly boasted their own standout pieces, the '60s were responsible for a newer approach to style that was, until then, quite formal.
During the '60s, the classics were renovated to reflect the decade's shifting cultural and social norms. From the civil rights movement and President Kennedy's assassination to the hippie movement and the British Invasion, the era was wrought with defining moments that changed the world forever. On a much smaller scale, they also changed the face of men's fashion.

Highlights of Male Fashion of the 1960s

It isn't for nothing that the '60s stand out as one of the most defining eras in men's fashion. So pronounced were the changes in style that it was impossible not to notice how the conservativeness of decades' past had given way to a much more energetic, bold overall design. The early years, however, were heavily influenced by Italian designers, who brought a sense of refinement to men's cuts and styles.

British Invasion and Men's Fashion

Defining moments of the decade also played a strong role in the way fashion matured over the years. For example, the British Invasion - the period that found singers from the United Kingdom enjoy immense popularity in the United States during the '60s - brought with it more than just music.
The Beatles-led movement transformed the conservative business suit into a tailored, fitted number with a clean, straight cut. In general, they were slimmer, thanks to narrowed pants, pointy dress shirt collars and nipped shirts that lent the entire ensemble a sleek silhouette from head to toe. As the decade progressed, the four "Mop Tops" embraced a more casual approach to style and began to wear turtlenecks and show off color in favor of their earlier all-black uniforms.
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Colors and Prints for Men

These later years witnessed a slew of decidedly feminine details that changed the face of men's fashion completely. In addition to wearing their hair longer, men began to adopt bright, vivacious colors; gregarious paisley, floral and polka dot prints; velvet pants; wide belts and more. Even jewelry designers joined in the adventure and began creating collections made specifically for men. This newfound freedom and style of dress may have seemed experimental at first, but it quickly became the norm as men all over the world embraced its spirit.

Key Pieces

No fashionable decade is without its key pieces - those garments that come to mind as soon as the era is mentioned and leave their indelible mark on the fashion world. During the '60s, several clearly stood out as representative of the era's unique styles:

Nehru Collars

Nehru collars appeared on both shirts and jackets. The upright, mandarin-style collar was first popularized in India before transitioning to the west. Its mainstream popularity came in the wake of several public appearances by the Beatles and the Monkees; both bands' members embraced the clean, understated look.

Tie Dye

Tie-dye t-shirts grew popular in the late 1960s. A vivid highlight of the burgeoning hippie movement, tie-dye was considered a mark of rebellion. It was thus incredibly popular amongst youth, particularly those who sat in protest against the Vietnam War.

Bell Bottoms

Bell bottoms hardly need an introduction. This unusual trouser style marked a sharp detour from the decade's early appreciation for slim, straight legs. The bell bottom flared out impressively below the knee, ending in an almost floating style below the ankles. They grew wider and wider in later years, but their initial popularity stemmed during the hippie period of the '60s.

Mod Styles

Mod styles may well best stand out as the decade's more remarkable and influential looks. Narrow cuts, clean lines and form-fitting garments were the norm in the earlier part of the decade, and even today these details inspire men's fashion designers.




The 1970s :

The Birth of Disco

When John Travolta strutted down the street in the film Saturday Night Fever, he gave disco-loving men everywhere license to wear the bold, dramatic styles of the time that translated well to the dance club floor. Men's casual fashion began to loosen up during the 1960's, but when disco music hit the scene in the 1970's, a new era in men's style was born.
Young and old alike flocked to disco clubs to dance the nights away. Men's fashions paralleled women's fashions during this time. Just as female dancers wore bold, dramatic styles on the dance floor, male dancers' flashy clothing rivaled the way women dressed.

Disco in Popular Culture

Since much of the 1970's defined itself by disco, you could find it everywhere, from TV to film. Some movies you might remember where men's disco styles played a big role are Saturday Night Fever andThank God it's Friday. A number of musicians and bands also contributed to the era's soundtrack. Groups and singers who had disco hits include:
  • KC and the Sunshine Band
  • The Bee Gees
  • Chic
  • ABBA
  • Donna Summer

Typical 1970's Disco Fashion

Men's clothing found on the dance floor during the 1970's was defined by:
  • Stretchy fabrics: Polyester saw huge success during this decade. With the addition of stretchy materials like lycra or spandex, men's 1970's disco fashion often fit close. It was typical to see a guy sporting a polyester shirt, fitting tightly across the chest, being unbuttoned halfway down and paired with pants that fit close in the rear and upper legs.
  • Bold patterns: Many of the shirts men wore to the disco were classified as "busy" in their patterns. From geometric designs to unique patterns never before seen, tops were anything but plain. Nowdays, designs easily identify an authentic shirt from the 1970's.
  • Widely flared pant legs: The boot-cut pants of today have nothing on the flare in men's pants from the 1970's. Those slacks bear no resemblance to the baggy trousers of today. The thigh area might fit closely, but once below the knees, the pants took a dramatic flare. It was no trouble to wear boots beneath these wide-legged trousers.
  • Wide lapels: Along with wide pant legs went wide collars and lapels, mostly seen in men's suits as well as their casual and dance attire. When going to nightclubs, many men wore shirts with buttons undone halfway down, sometimes even further.
  • Dramatic colors: Just as the patterns were bold and dramatic, so were the colors that men wore when going to the disco. With such a wild and carefree atmosphere at well-known clubs like Studio 54, no one wanted to fade into the background when disco dancing. While women made great use of color and shiny fabrics and materials for their 1970's disco fashion, men relied on bold color in their clothing.




The 1980s

What Exactly Did Men Wear In The 80s?

Men's fashions in the 1980s were quite different than in decades prior. Gone were the styles from the 70s disco era and in were looks that were heavily influenced by androgynous pop stars, hip hop culture, hair-metal bands and action movie stars. The 80s men's fashion trends also reflected what was worn on TV shows by stars who ruled the decade with their bold fashion sense. Many of the styles knew no limits. It was common to see a man dressed for work in clothes they also deemed appropriate for leisure activities, such as an evening out at a nightclub. Practically whatever you were into in the 80s, there was a fashion style that suited your personality.

Cool and Casual Styles

Although the average man may not have worn exactly the same casual wear as men in the movies or television, there were plenty of 80s influences in this area. The look that ruled the 80s was often cool and casual. Miami Vice was a popular TV series in the 1980s and men followed the style of Don Johnson and Phillip Michael Thomas. Many men wore:
  • Casual t-shirts under designer jackets (which may have shoulder pads)
  • Suits in white, pastel, or bright colors
  • Loafers or boat shoes, minus socks
  • Men often wore pushed-up sleeves and open jackets.
It was also common to wear a shirt without a tie to the office. A Hawaiian shirt, as seen on the 80s hit series Magnum, P.I. could be seen both at the office and on the weekends.
The TV screen wasn't the only medium to influence 80s fashion, as blockbuster films of the decade did the same. Leather and sports-themed jackets, worn by Eddie Murphy in Beverly Hills Cop, Sylvester Stallone in Cobra and Arnold Schwarzenegger in The Terminator were a few of the styles that men in the 80s favored.
Clothing Inspired from the Music Scene
Michael Jackson
: There was no icon bigger than Michael Jackson. His style defined much of the clothing in the 80s. From leather studded jackets to slouchy and oversized tops, men wore clothes that resembled Michael's unique style. Who could forget the sparkly glove on one hand look? Not only were studded leather jackets popular but leather bomber jackets were as well.

Average men also wore clothing that was inspired by some of the decade's biggest musical influences.
  • Heavy metal clothing: Totally opposite from the Michael Jackson look was the look of the hair bands. Men often mimicked the look of bands such as Poison or Metallica. They wore t-shirts. leather/spandex pants and torn jeans often with a bandana around their massively teased hair and studded boots on their feet.
  • Androgynous styles: For men who were equally as influenced by male fashion icons of the 80s as female, there was the hugely popular androgynous look that was seen on pop stars like Boy George, Prince and Annie Lennox. This fashion style featured men wearing women's blouses, high-heeled boots, large hoop earrings and faces full of make-up.
  • Hip hop looks: The 1980s also saw the emergence of a new music style that would greatly influence the urban fashion scene. This new music was of course hip hop, which popularized the fascination with designer sneakers, Kangol caps, thick gold rope chains, three/four finger rings and parachute pants.
  • MC Hammer: Parachute pants, also known as "Hammer pants," were popularized by rapper MC Hammer. The pants were very big and roomy, with a large space in between the crotch area that contained a massive amount of extra fabric.

Conservative Styles

Men of all ages and walks of life adored the 'preppy' look. This conservative style of dress originated in the 1950s and was known as Ivy Leaugue Dress, made a resurgence beginning in the late 70s and remained prevalent during the 80s. It consisted of clothing items such as:
  • Button-down oxford shirts
  • Polo shirts with the collars turned up
  • Argyle sweaters - often tied loosely around the neck
  • Sweater vests
  • Peg-legged jeans
  • Cuffed khakis
  • Penny loafers or bright white sneakers

Brand-Name Clothing


Izod, which featured sportswear and dressy casual fashions
Clothing done in pastel shades and displaying brand logos was extremely popular in the 80s. Some of the most prominent brands were:
  • Gap, who popularized pullover sweatshirts, jeans and hoodies
  • Guess: They were one of the most popular denim brands of the 80s.
  • Polo Ralph Lauren, a brand known for their colorful polo shirts and jackets
  • Benetton was largely regarded for their colorful sweaters and knits.
  • Champion sweatshirts were a popular item for weekend wear for both men and women, often over turtenecks.

More 80s Clothing and Accessory Items

Are you still wondering what men wore in the 80s? There were many other clothing items that were popular, such as:
  • Converse All-Stars sneakers in a variety of colors, high-top and low
  • Member's Only jackets were lightweight jackets that came in a variety of colors that stopped at the waist and could be zipped up to the neck.
  • Jean jackets were adorned with buttons from choice rock bands, pop stars and movies
  • Sunglasses - worn day and night
  • Acid or stonewashed jeans
  • Track suits
  • Fanny packs, filled with essentials such as keys, tools, identification and credit cards
  • Men in the 80s could be seen wearing only one earring.





The 1990s :

Grunge look

[edit]Modern Preppy

[edit]Mid 1990s

[edit]Cool Britannia

[edit]Hip-hop

[edit]Late 1990s

[edit]Streetwear

By the late 1990s, the most popular trainers were white or black and manufactured by Adidas, Reebok, Hitec and Nike. Leather had largely replaced canvas, and soles were made of foam rather than solid rubber.

  • Young European and American men favored preppy brands like Old Navy, khaki cargo pants, baggy basketball shorts, and chinos. Other popular items of clothing included tracksuits, hoodies, and black bomber jackets with orange linings. At this time it became fashionable to leave shirts untucked.

[edit]Business wear

  • In Europe, single-breasted three and four button suits in grey or navy blue, together with leather jackets based on the same cut as blazers, began to replace the 1980s power suits. Tweed cloth and houndstooth sportcoats went out of fashion due to their association with older men.
  • In America, suits went out of fashion as men began to dress smart-casual and business casual, a trend kickstarted by Bill Gates of Microsoft.



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